MAKING VINTAGE FASHION FIT

I love shopping vintage as many of you know, there is the thrill of the find the treasure aspect of it that makes it so exciting. Recently I came across a diamond in the rough this tiger print full length dress. I instantly responded to the print and the richness of the colour so I purchased it along with a few other things from Take 2 markets which always offer up some goodness.

The amount of the garish print was overwhelmingly costume like although I think Florence Welsh might rock it, for my every day or night out I would have to work on this. 

The side seams were crooked and I suspect the previous owner had closed long side slits.

I had a vision it could look more like this, more current and wearable with staying true to some aspects of the original design.

Here is a sketch of the work required to take the basic sack like design to something that would suit my figure type.

I need fitted and a certain length or I quadruple in size, I am tall with square shoulders and can look large if I don't wear a fitted garment, so these are the steps I took to retro fit it.

I would recommend the following guidelines as I have learned the hard way...

• Try the garment on with the heel height you intend to wear it with especially when deciding on the hem length.

• Align the darts - measure measure measure. 

• Always cut hems 6cm longer than required - if you cut it too short it is all over and you won't wear it. If you do happen to cut it too short you can use a facing but this becomes arduous and is no fun - I like immediate results.

• Make alterations less than you think then keep taking in as required, if you are too aggressive with the alterations and unpicking is needed this is never ideal and can damage the garment.

• Keep trying on and refining as you go.

• Use good scissors invest in a large pair of tailors shears one smooth cut is brilliant and once you get use to the weight and size you can use the tips for fine cutting - you will thank me trust me.

• Check your iron setting before you give the garment a final press - start with a cool iron, gone are the days of heavy pressing and be warned some synthetics melt onto the iron and this destroys your unique find and your iron - very ruining.

• Keep offcuts.

Once you have tried the garment on a number of times and refined the fit and given it a final press you can head out in your unique find.

I love this dress and have made a video on my youtube channel about this project - hop over here give it a watch and subscribe! I think I will wear it with my tan boots and a fitted black jacket or cardigan for  work and some really clashy heels and accesories when I head out perhaps magenta or cobalt blue shoes. See you on the Retro side and thanks for reading!

Unlikely Vintage Inspirations that are Completely Queer

I love a bit of vulgar culture. Fashion offers up a plethora of fodder especially during those most perplexing of decades of the 60's and 70's. Recently I was discussing the true hideousness of some of the television at that time. The recollections of truly questionable character portrayals and fabrics that were as confronting as the sideburns presented.

The worst offenders were the British - UK TV. 

Are You Being Served?

Now I do not mean to be unkind but what was the casting brief here?

Ever questionable physical comedy. 

Resulting in cringe worthy intimacy leaving you reeling and queasy not unlike car sickness. 

The Stoic and the Flamboyant counterbalance apparently resulting in hilarity.

Now I don't know what happened in my head as a small child taking this all in but somewhere amongst the mix of abrasive voices and the bad comedic premise I fell in love. I turned...

To this day I love this look above.

Something about her powdered look, his true degree of maturity and dapper refinement and most of all the fabrics and the past its use by date of early 1960's fashion being worn on and on. Perhaps that is the reason I collect nasty nylon night wear that I am sure that Mrs S could have swanned about in. Oh the harsh nylon goodness, the smell and look of the old 'Taft' hairspray, talcum powder and face compact heavily layered, lavender eyeshadow and pastel pink lips. 

Or as I like to call it...

Old lady Grunt.

This image is such a great exponent of what I am on about. Besides the almost Groucho like face on the dark haired man these folks are totally and completely rocking it. 

With an attitude adjustment these people could be positively sexy. 

The foxy redhead wins hands down to me...Go Mrs Slocombe!

Wikipedia...

During its run, the series attracted some mild criticism for its reliance on sexual stereotypes and double entendres, including jokes about Mrs. Slocombe's "pussy" (cat) e.g., Mrs Slocombe, "Animals are very psychic; the least sign of danger and my pussy's hair stands on end".

Come to think of it you could spell her name in an all together different way...upon reflection perhaps they weren't so clueless.

SHES A MOD ::: 1960's FASHION

Note the dancing,

note the high high guitars,

note the high 'tight' rever collars on the suit jackets that mirror a little boys school shirt.

MOD - From the word Modern.

The Mod fashion movement was a Modern response to previous and current fashion of the time, it was fashion forward, had a new fit a graphic trend. The 'neat' suit fit, stand away A-line dresses, helmets, mod boots - swoon!, Vespa scooters, Mary Quant, Pucci, Biba and Pierre Cardin define the Mod fashion look.

Eking out its own style post beatnik, Mod style was considered very radical for its time and achieved  its peak during the 1960's. It wasn't for everyone and in a time when fashion was strictly segmented by age - at 30 you were well and truly over the hill and clad accordingly. This was youth fashion at its finest.

If you were a Mod you were current, bold, fashion forward before the term had evolved. Being a mod was a radical statement to society. Mods lived the life. Haircuts are truly definitive in particular this was heightened bob, asymmetrical, short - the the 1950's beehive deflated and redesigned.

For the first time in the 20th century androgyny creeps in, men and women can cut the same silhouette in a jacket or pant.

Black, white, navy and cream, teamed with red. Very British by nature translated beautifully by the Italian designers, the mod movement embraced 'the dance', mods can be very hard core and usually the look was paired with an attitude to match, it was not for the faint hearted. Becoming a mod took commitment...head to toe, Mods were rebels.

If I was committing to the look authentically today this is what I might attire ones self in.

The cardigan clad dressed down mod - still teetering on the soft 60's trend and bordering on beatnik. I love this image could be Portobello Rd mid 60's.

Or strictly mod - high fashion style

 and this might be my work wear.

Go Mod!

Memphis Design 1980's Style ::: National Gallery Of Victoria

Recently I went to the NGV and laughed at myself when I came across these perfect examples of Memphis Design. The movement was at its height during the 1980's it was seen everywhere and I loved it. I would have thought I had died and gone to heaven if owned this chair and book shelf. To me they epitomise the look. Colourful, restrained yet gaudy, childish yet intelligent, functional art.

'First Chair' by Michele De Lucchi 1983. Bookshelf 'The King' by Ettore Sottsass 1981.

Memphis design exploded onto and into every facet of design - it was like a showbag 

vomited on everything; fashion, restaurants, nightclubs, music clips and every available 

page and design element imaginable. I still have some very lurid giant earrings that I
covet that are true to the design aesthetic.

As I continued through the gallery musing on the direct evidence and influence of
Bauhaus and Mid century design that led to Memphis I came across the following
pieces that are way off the mark in the timeline and were clearly anomalies at their
time - that scream 80's Memphis Design to me. I found it quite interesting and thought
I would share. 

                        

The details of this mirror simply read : England manufacturer 1810

                                                               

This mirror looks every bit an 1980's spectacular.

Christopher DRESSER designer Tea service 1879

Christoper DRESSER designer Letter rack 1881

The ball elements and sense of scale on the silverware above are 100% Memphis

to me.

Joseph CSAKY Abstract sculpture 1919 cast 1960 3/6

Although this sculpture does have some deco feel it could just have easily sat in an

80's Memphis theme.

Barbara HEPWORTH Eidos 1947

This gorgeous piece almost crosses over to pop art and sits on the fence, mid century/Memphis?

Jacob EPSTEIN Sunflower 1912-13

Classic sunburst element here. 

I also came across this stunning portrait simply entitled Girl in Black I found her image 

completely compelling and very intriguing, interestingly I thought she would be 

amazing during any decade. Her hair and clothing could be reflective of so many eras.

Gerald leslie BROCKHURST Girl in Black 1930's

Style and design can definitely transcend time and peal throughout the global consciousness in a seemingly erratic way filtering through again and again during different times and trends, like a beautiful key aesthetic that wont go away.

WORK WEAR IN THE AIR - FLY WITH ME!

Uniforms aren't what they used to be. Just ask Emilio Pucci about this sensible work helmet hat thingy he designed to preserve the hair styles of the flight attendant of the 1960's.

 

60's fetish boots and PVC a plenty - now that's flying... OK we have well established my love for the vintage so lets go through it.

1940's
These women were largely influenced by their role and association in the military - dignified restraint quite beautiful.

Air India 1946

1950's
With a hangover from the bombshell's of the 1940's the 50's uniforms sport a more unabashed and figure hugging uniform, unmistakeably sexy yet modest and refined.

Swinging 60's! Oh la laaahhh...

70's questionable hair and gusset hugging shorts worn with low slung belts and ultra cool boots and fabrics so harsh they'll double as industrial abrasives!

 

1980's...More horrific than bad turbulence with a vomiting child seated next to you - shudder/cringe.

Nordair early 80's

I hope counseling was provided after these ladies suffered the trauma of wearing these outfits.

1990's Apparently prints were in. Not bad things are turning very corporate at this point.

2000's - Today...

Things have certainly settled down a bit now and I think it all works but I think I might have to buck the system.

What I really want to wear in my invisible jet...

The correct way to wear gold accessories and I just adore her body the ultimate feminine.

I think I will petition the airlines today - get in touch with Richard Branson and have a face to face.

I am a fashion designer and surely he needs uniforms for his Virgin Galactic Team...ohhh I will take inspiration from here must dash off to contact 'Richo'

Ciao Ciao and air kisses darlings!

:::CHANGING DIRECTIONS:::SAVVY ARE WE:::

What if someone came up to you mid journey and said 'Wrong map'.

Just how long would it take before you decided to put that map down...

How many jobs were lost in Victoria alone due to the cessation of our bread and butter industries? The last count I heard was 27,000 in the last 12 months and there has been many more job cuts announced since then. Everything has been affected fruit canneries, smelters, the idiotic handling of our cattle industry - what were they thinking driving that death nail in? There are now huge cutbacks in education and this comes after the economic stimuli project extended almost every school in the state. Manufacturing has gone off shore, most of the older industrial areas in Melbourne are unrecognizable and have now morphed into apartments while our skilled labor force is left longing. Its progress a sign of the times we get but!

I knew a guy who worked as a cutter for Jag clothing company for years and years till they went off shore, he then worked at Kodak processing plant till that shut down virtually overnight due to the invent and popularity of the digital camera. He is in his mid 40's and his skills and training have become obsolete twice. Last I heard he was a handy man.

So in many sectors the amount of work available has and is continuing to contract. What are the growth areas? Mental Health and Aged Care.
Travel and Leisure. Legal and IT. I don't have the answers I am a Fashion Designer in the outmoded land of the $5.00 T shirt ragtrade.

I get it, its tough out there. Fortunately I myself have enjoyed a great career in the industry and am happily making new ground into areas I now chose to work in.

Competition is heightened to a new lofty degree and the consumer is more aware than ever - its a global sweep when we cast our eye now on what ever it is we require. Savvy are we!
We can afford more, have more but the map just keeps on changing. Food and entertainment has finally become expensive while we find clothing, furniture and house prices continue to fall and jobs become frighteningly more and more scarce.

Ahhh reality take a deep sniff let it burn your sinuses. Like an unpleasant smell in the cinema we all sit trying to ignore it. So in the lucky land we are at last feeling the pinch.

Bloody map - quick get me the app' or the really cheap GPS!

When in high school I had no plans I was simply going to forge my own path and show the world how brilliant I was. There was never going to be a map just sunshine and happiness!

Both my high school and college teachers convinced me I was going to need an education and it turned out they filled in my applications and I got into an Arts tailored College for year 12 and then onto University due to their push. Thank you Barry and Colleen.

Getting into RMIT Fashion Design was no mean feat. In true naive style I filled out my application forms in the hallway while I waited to be called for my interview - some doors just open. I recall rows and rows of hopefuls, some had only a manilla folder in hand and looked like meek little beige receptionists I didn't get it.


I had a suitcase and garment bag bursting at the seams with my designs, all forms of avant-garde wearable art and quite a get up on. I suppose they thought it would be better if I was removed from the street. Sometimes the world opens up for us when we push in the right direction. You cant force it, meld it or predict it, you just have to live it.

Australia affords us a very comfortable 'pinch'. If you are fortunate to be healthy in mind body and spirit there is much to be grateful for.
Life is an opportunity.
Everyday a gift.
Just ask someone that is ill or homeless I am sure they will tell you the same thing.

Motivational speakers from Tony Robbins to Oprah, financial gurus and mental health experts all espouse the benefits and true rewards of recognising what we do and can have.

Life's Banquet - pull up a chair and chow down folks!

If your only problem is that you and your partner cannot agree on what car to buy or that you cannot afford a fourth vacation this year then you had better take a long hard look at yourself or the life of another. Life has a manner of getting peoples with attention - it can take years. You can take life for granted, but somehow in someway life will deliver you with a slap directly to the temple...WHAP!

Your ego may take the blow.

Perhaps you are forced to really see yourself? 

Reassess your values? 

These are gifts they make you grow. 

Some individuals prefer to sit in their haughty denial - good luck with that! 

It will just result in a much more painful fall.

Be grateful, be creative, do what you love and the world might just open up!

Who knows you might actually enjoy changing directions and throw away the map once and for all.